Step 1

Decide on the finished size of pocket you want. Cut out a piece of thin card that exact size. Cut out your pocket fabric, it should be 3" wider and 2" longer than the card.

Step 2

Fold in half from side to side and draw a line 1" in from the top of the pocket to the bottom. Baste along this line.

Step 3

Open up fabric and press fold open (make sure it is centred when you press it open). Give it a good burst of steam so it is nice and crisp.

Step 4

(how it now should look from right side.)

Step 5

Fuse a 1" strip of interfacing to the top of the pocket

Step 6

Flip the top of the pocket over to the right side -- I like to press it at this point. Then finish the edge of the pocket, either using a serger, zig-zag on a regular machine or turning a tiny bit under.

Step 7

Center your card under the fold so the same amount of fabric sticks out either side (about 1/2"). Using the card as a guidline, stitch the fold down securely on both sides.

Step 8

Trim your seam allowances.

Step 9

Turn flap inside out and press well.

Step 10

Put card back inside pocket and use it to see how much to turn up. Turn the bottom corners up at 45 degrees first. Press well.

Step 11

Fold sides in over card. Press, then remove card.

Step 12

Cut strips of fusible web from scraps and iron onto the bottom and edges of the pocket.

Step 13

Remove the basting thread you put in your fold in step 2.

Step 14

Sew across the flap to secure it in place, then press pocket in correct place on garment (the fusible web will hold it in place for you). Topstitch along sides and bottom with either matching or contrasting thread.