By Meagan
This simple, gathered skirt has clean lines and the added appeal of being easy washing and
wearing. The flat front avoids bulk at the waist, while the gathered back allows for
adjustability. Because of the ease of sizing, a single skirt can often be worn through many
seasons.
Step 1
1) Cut fabric. You'll need two panels for the body 2 short strips for the waistband and 2 long strips (or bias tape) for the hem. I'm sewing a size 5/6/7 in this example.
a) I cut my panels approx 18" long x 44" wide. (Essentially, this particular skirt takes 1/2 yard of fabric for each panel).
b) Decide on the finished measurement for your waistband and cut the front waistband piece half of that measurement. So if your finished waistband is to be 18", cut the front waistband strip around 9". The pieces should be about 3" wide. Interface this piece only.
c) There's no sent length for the back waistband piece, but it should be about half as wide as the back panel. The idea is to cut bulk at the back by reducing the amount of fabric at the waistline, while still allowing a full gather for the skirt. I cut my back waistband piece about 18" x 3".
d) These are the strips that you use to bind the hem. You may also use bias tape or simple avoid binding all together and simply hem it. They should each be the same length as your skirt panels. Mine are each about 2" x 44".
Step 2
2) Gather the skirt panels. I like to use two rows of stitching close together with a long stitch length (as shown), but use whatever gathering method is your favorite. In the picture, I'm pulling the bobbin threads to gather my panel. Do this for both the front and the back panels while referencing the length of your waistband pieces so that you gather to the correct width.
Step 3
3) Attach waistband pieces to skirt panels. After skirt panels are gathered, pin the waistband pieces to the panels and stitch together (I use a 1/4" seam allowance). The second picture shows the back panel after the waistband piece has been stitched and serged.
Step 4
4) After the waistband pieces have been attached to both panels, stitch/serge ONE side seam. If plan on hemming your skirt, you may finish both side seams and continue on to finish the waistband. If you are using binding, you should also sew together your two long hem strips, which will leave you with a lonnnnnggg strip (around 85-90").
Step 5
5) Sewing your hem binding. a) Right sides together, sew your skirt and the hem strips together using a seam allowance equal to the width you desire your binding to me. I used a 1/2" seam allowance, which will make my hem binding about 1/2".
b.
b) Press your seam so you have a clean line.
c.
c) On the wrong side of the skirt, fold the raw edge of your hem binding back to give you a finished edge. And then press over again to hide raw edges.
d.
d) Finish your binding with a seam-- stitch in the ditch.
Step 6
6) Picture not shown, but very important -- Sew/finish the other side seam.
Step 7
7) Finishing the waistband. a) Serge/finish the top edge of your waistband and then press a 1/4" seam.
b.
b) Fold the pressed edge over to the inside and pin. This should leave you with a waistband that's around 1 1/4".
c.
c) Stitch down the waistband on the BACK panel only.
d.
d) Cut your elastic to length. Again, this is going to be roughly half (or a little less) of your desired finished waist measurement. Thread it through the waistband back where you just finished the seam. Stitch the elastic down at the side seams.
e.
e) From the front this time, fold and pin your front waistband, the stitch in the ditch to finish the waistband.
f.
f) Optional step: Stitch rows in the elastic. I like to stitch rows in the elastic because it keeps the elastic from shifting in it's casing and gives it a more finished look. Just increase your stitch length considerably (I think mine's at about 4 and stitch 2 or 3 rows through your elastic.
finished.
Finished! :)
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